Christmas Market Magic in Colmar, France – Our 2015 Alsace Adventure
- rickwetmore
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read
Finding Our Way Back to the Magic
After our daughter introduced us to the German Christmas Markets during our 2013 visit to Frankfurt, Kathie and I were completely hooked. There’s nothing quite like wandering through old town squares filled with twinkling lights, the scent of spiced wine drifting through the air, and cheerful music setting the tone for the season. Unfortunately, life stepped in during 2014, and we had to put our holiday travel dreams on pause.
But by the summer of 2015, I was back at the computer, scanning websites and travel blogs, determined to pick up where we left off. Among all the major European cities advertising their Christmas Market charm, one small town kept popping up as something truly special — Colmar, France.
And so, our plans began to take shape.
We booked a nonstop Swiss Air flight from Boston to Zürich, set our dates, and mapped out three full days in Colmar (November 25–27), including Thanksgiving. To extend the trip, we added Basel and Zürich afterward — but that’s a story for the next blog.
A Little Colmar History — Why Does France Look So… German?
One of the first things you notice about Colmar is how distinctly German it looks. The crooked half-timbered houses, steep gables, narrow lanes, and storybook architecture feel straight out of a Grimm Brothers tale. There’s a good reason for that: Alsace has spent centuries seesawing between German and French rule, leaving behind a cultural and architectural blend that feels utterly unique.
Colmar avoided heavy destruction during past conflicts, so much of its medieval and Renaissance center survived intact. Those charmingly uneven façades aren’t whimsical recreations — they are the real thing, softened and weathered by hundreds of years.
Arriving in Colmar feels less like stepping into a destination and more like stepping into a setting — the sort of place Dickens might have chosen for a Christmas chapter. And during the holidays, the whole town leans fully into that identity.
Getting There & Settling In
Once we landed in Zürich, we made our way downstairs to the airport train station and caught a nonstop train to Basel, connecting easily to a local train straight into Colmar. Our hotel, the Grand Hôtel Bristol, sat conveniently across from the train station — perfect for both arrival and departure.
It was an easy 15-minute walk from the hotel to the old town and the picturesque canal district known as La Petite Venise (Little Venice). And as we soon learned, this walk became part of the charm of our daily routine.
A Candlelit Welcome in Little Venice
On our first night, still shaking off travel and eager to explore, we spotted a flyer advertising a schoolchildren’s choir performance in Little Venice. Curious, we wandered toward the canals at dusk and found a small crowd gathered on an arched bridge, the air buzzing with anticipation.
Then, glowing softly in the darkness, three small barges outlined in white lights drifted toward us. Seated safely aboard were children in bright Santa hats, accompanied by a guitar player. As the boats glided toward the bridge, the children began to sing.
All the songs were in French, but some melodies were comfortingly familiar. Their voices rose into the crisp night air, reflecting off the water and echoing gently beneath the old timbered buildings. It felt like we had stumbled into a living, breathing Christmas card — a magical welcome we’ll never forget.
A Very Alsatian Thanksgiving
The next day brought a special kind of holiday cheer. Our daughter drove down from Frankfurt with two friends to spend Thanksgiving with us. While a traditional turkey dinner was nowhere to be found, we embraced the spirit of adventure and enjoyed roasted wild boar at a cozy local restaurant. Not exactly Pilgrim fare, but a memorable and delicious twist on the holiday!
The Rhythm of Our Days in Colmar
Each morning began with the hotel's generous breakfast spread — meats, cheeses, pastries, fruit — but let’s be honest: the freshly baked croissants were the highlight. Warm, flaky, buttery perfection. Add a touch of strawberry jam or orange marmalade and a cup of strong, dark French coffee, and life was very, very good.
By late morning, we would stroll toward the center of town through Parc du Champ de Mars, Colmar’s version of Central Park. At the far end we found food stalls, festive decorations, and a few carnival rides lighting up the November sky.
A short walk brought us to our first major market of the day: Place des Dominicains. Set around the medieval Église des Dominicains, this intimate market was full of charm. The narrow streets leading into the square were lined with chocolate shops, wine shops, cheese shops, and boutiques with sidewalk displays bursting with color.
Inside the square, rows of wooden chalets displayed ornaments, crafts, candles, handmade toys, and Christmas keepsakes. A vendor selling freshly cut trees and wreaths filled the air with the scent of evergreen, mixing beautifully with the spice aromas drifting from a nearby vin chaud stand. Locals mingled with tourists, adding to the cheerful atmosphere.
Our wanderings continued past the magnificent Collégiale Saint-Martin, then through smaller squares dotted with more chalets, including the lively area near the Schwendi Fountain. A favorite photo stop was the balcony at the Koïfhus (old customs house), offering a perfect view of the traditional timbered buildings in all their holiday splendor.
From there, it was just a short stroll to the Marché Couvert, Colmar’s indoor market on the canal, and finally to the arched bridge in Little Venice — now a familiar and beloved landmark. A nearby chalet selling fresh hot crêpes quickly became a weakness. Our favorite combination? Nutella with hot chocolate on the side… absolute bliss.
By mid-afternoon we often returned to the hotel for a rest, saving our energy for the evening’s magical transformation.
Colmar at Night — A Fairytale After Dark
If Colmar is charming by day, it becomes completely enchanting after sunset. As twilight faded, the town lit up in a warm, golden glow. Strings of lights stretched between buildings like shimmering canopies, and the half-timbered houses radiated color from their decorated windows and balconies.
The market chalets glowed like lanterns, their displays sparkling beneath twinkling garlands. Crowds wandered slowly, wrapped in scarves and wonder, stopping for warm treats or simply to savor the ambiance.
The photos capture these moments — the carousel glowing in neon colors, the streams of people drifting by in soft motion blur, the Christmas tree standing proudly in the square. The canal scenes were equally magical: bridges outlined in soft white lights, their reflections shimmering on the dark water below.
Near the Marché Couvert, the long row of illuminated windows cast a warm glow on the canal, producing a near-perfect reflection. It was peaceful, picturesque, and so beautifully “Colmar” — a town that seems born to be photographed.
Every night we found new details, new colors, new corners to admire. Colmar at night doesn’t just sparkle… it glows from the inside out.
Colmar: A Town That Stays With You
When our three days in Colmar came to an end, we realized this small Alsatian town had exceeded every expectation we had. Its markets may be smaller than the big European cities, but its charm, warmth, and atmosphere are unmatched. Even after visiting many Christmas Markets over the years, Colmar remains one of our absolute favorites — a place that feels both magical and intimate, especially during the holidays.
With luggage in tow and hearts full of Christmas spirit, we made our way back to the train station and boarded for our next stop: Basel, Switzerland.
But that’s a story for the next chapter.
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